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Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Eggplant Fried "Chicken" with Crispy Skin!

Anyone who knows me will tell you that fried chicken is one of my favorite foods. And it's not just me. My sister has always been crazy about fried chicken. My wife absolutely loves fried chicken, and she says it's just about the only thing that prevents her from switching to purely a pescatarian diet.

What is it about fried chicken that makes it so wonderful? It's not really the taste of the meat itself, since chicken takes on the flavor of whatever you cook it in. And we've found that veggie options like Beyond Meat Chicken-Free Strips can do a great job of replicating the texture of chicken muscle. So it has to be something else.

OK, I'll stop playing dumb now. Of course, it's the skin! That crunchy, crackly, crispy, greasy goodness dressed in batter and deep fried to a golden delight is like manna from heaven. My sister once famously decreed that she would like nothing more than a whole plate of fried chicken skin, and I would have to concur.

Finding a good way to make vegetarian chicken skin seemed like an impossibility until I stumbled on a blog post yesterday on the Vegan Crunk blog about Roberto Martin's cookbook, Vegan Cooking for Carnivores. Martin is the personal chef for Ellen DeGeneres, and while he's not a vegan himself, he's tasked with making vegan fare. His inspiration is typical meat-based dishes, and to solve the chicken skin problem he came up with a masterful solution: spring roll wrappers! Simply brilliant, and I can't believe I never learned about this until now.

After getting the idea for the chicken skin, putting together the rest of the recipe was easy. While I do eat soy and seitan-based meat substitutes, I think that relying on them too heavily is probably a bad thing, and besides, sometimes you're looking for the vegetable to stand on its own instead of imitating something else. I still eat some poultry along with fish (and the very rare slice of bacon), so I can still have real fried chicken as a treat. This time, however, I wanted something unique.

Eggplant is one of my favorite go-to meat substitutes. It cooks quickly but can still retain structure if done right, has a large surface area that easily makes it look like a piece of chicken or steak, and tastes great. For frying, it's perfect. If it can work in eggplant parmesan, why can't it work in fried chicken?

The batter is a standard two-step wet and dry combo. Since I'm not vegan I used eggs in the wet batter, but you can use cashew cream (soaked cashews blended until smooth) if you want. I paired the fried eggplant with a waffle recipe from Megan on (which also has eggs and milk), because if there's one thing that can make fried chicken better, it's waffles.

The result is out of this world. The skin keeps the eggplant, while soft after frying, from falling apart, and the crunch is worlds better than just dredging and frying. I hope to make a truly vegan version of this someday, but until then I think this recipe for chicken-fried eggplant is going to be a favorite in our household. Enjoy!


For the eggplant
2 medium globe eggplants, peeled with stems removed
1/2 cup liquid aminos or tamari
1/4 cup water
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp salt
1 tsp garlic powder
the zest of one lemon
1 package of 6" rice paper spring roll wrappers, or larger ones cut to fit with kitchen shears

For the wet batter
2 eggs, beaten
2/3 cup all purpose flour
1 cup water
1 tbsp hot sauce (optional)
2 tsp salt

For the seasoned flour
2/3 cup all purpose flour
1/3 cup cornmeal
1 tbsp Old Bay seasoning
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp paprika


Slice the eggplants about 3/4" thick and in half crosswise if necessary. The goal is to make them look somewhat like boneless chicken breast pieces. In a zip top bag, combine the liquid aminos, water, cayenne, salt, garlic, and lemon zest, and add the eggplant pieces. Let them marinate for about 30 minutes.

Fill a pie plate or dish large enough to hold a rice paper wrapper flat with enough warm tap water to keep the wrapper submerged. Soak a single wrapper for about 20 seconds, until it is just soft and workable enough to fold. Don't let it get too soft, or it will tear. Wrap each eggplant piece in the rice paper, and set it on a plate lined with wax paper. Set the plate on a chopstick at one end so that it tilts slightly. You want the eggplant to drain so that the rice paper adheres well to it. Set this aside while you work on the batter.

Heat a cast iron skillet or frying pan with about an inch of oil. In a bowl, mix all the wet batter ingredients together. The consistency should be fairly thin but still adhere to the back of a spoon. In a separate bowl, combine the ingredients for the seasoned flour.

Coat each piece of eggplant in the wet batter, then dredge in the seasoned flour and fry until golden. They will cook very quickly, and a minute or two is really all that is needed to make the eggplant tender. Place on an inverted cooling rack to drain while you work on the rest of the "chicken."

Yields: 6 servings

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Fried Colcannon Cakes with Leek Cream Sauce

I recently went to an Irish pub with my family, and while I enjoyed my salmon sandwich, I was a bit disappointed that they did not have colcannon on the menu. Irish cuisine isn't well known for its vegetarian dishes, but I love colcannon, a mixture of mashed potatoes, leafy greens, and onions.

So when my wife was having a potato craving a week later, I thought I'd right my personal wrong and make colcannon for dinner. But then I had another idea. What if I fried it? There are very few things in this world that you can make worse by frying. Topped with a garlicky leek cream sauce, they were delicious. Here is my recipe for fried colcannon cakes with leek cream sauce.

For the cakes:

4 large russet potatoes, about 3 pounds
1 large carrot, grated
1 bunch of kale, shredded
2 green onions, green and white parts minced
3 tbsp butter, softened
1/2 tsp salt
Black pepper
Olive oil for frying

For the sauce:

2 tbsp butter
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 leek, white and green parts minced
1 tbsp all purpose flour
1 cup milk


Rinse the potatoes and pat dry, but not too dry. Poke several holes in the potatoes with a fork, and place the spuds on a microwavable plate. Cover with a paper towel. Microwave on high for 12-15 minutes, or until you can slice the potatoes in half without too much resistance. Let the potatoes cool as you make the sauce.

Microwaving the potatoes instead of boiling them both preserves vitamins and reduces the amount of water retained after cooking. This means you don't have to add flour to the cakes to hold their shape.

In a saucepan, melt the butter until it starts to bubble. Add the garlic and cook until it just starts to get some color. Add the leek and cook until softened. Add the flour, absorbing the rest of the butter. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 30 seconds. Lower the heat to medium-low and add the milk, stirring or whisking until thickened. Add more milk if you want a thinner sauce, or let it reduce if you want a thicker one. Add salt and pepper to taste. Reduce the heat to warm and assemble the cakes.

Once cooled, peel the potatoes. You can do this fairly easily with your fingers or with a peeler. Mash into a large bowl with a masher or ricer. Add the carrot, kale, green onions, butter, salt, and a couple turns of pepper.

Coat the bottom of a frying pan with olive oil, perhaps 1/4 inch. With your hands, form the potato mixture into patties, squeezing out as much air as possible without making them too dense. Also, try to make them relatively flat so they fry up better. Fry until golden on one side, then flip. The patties will be somewhat fragile, so take care with the spatula, and leave plenty of room between the patties.

Serve the colcannon cakes with the sauce on top or on the side. Makes 4-6 cakes.